“Everything has to change for nothing to change”.

Brand language expert, artist and linguist, Jeanne Bordeau presents each year an annual observatory of luxury words that captures the annual trends in the language of luxury brands.

Stand out at all costs.

It is mainly thanks to a strong identity that luxury brands succeed in distinguishing themselves. No hassle. So the Little black dress de Guerlain celebrates its tenth anniversary with a new advertising campaign, and continues to assert its identity through Nancy Sinatra’s cult song ” These boots are made for walking’ », powerful song of women’s liberation.

Yes, fashion has entered the metaverse. Yes, it needs art, spectacle, a clear link to rebellion. In good conscience with “second hand”. There are even unity designers, we think of Mossi Traoré. And tech helps with all of this: tens of millions of Internet users experience digital luxury. But the more luxury relies on, or the more it draws inspiration from the streets, the more it seems to require grounding and reaffirm one’s identity. Especially in times of war and crisis.

So each of the hotels in the EVOK collection, for example, knows how to portray its personality with strength and sophistication. The Brach hotel shows a unique luxury, the Cour des Vosges promotes refinement and a French art of living, as for Nolinski, located near the Comédie Française, it claims a luxury where art and culture have their place. And the EVOK brand knows how to express the dash between all its hotels, which tells us about a luxury with a taste “from somewhere else”.

to stand up, brands also continue to use celebrity ambassadors. This is the sensitive dimension demanded here. A pioneer, shoemaker Roger Vivier, quickly understood the importance of wearing stars. In 1930 Josephine Baker, in 1953 Queen Elizabeth II for her coronation. Roger Vivier has remained faithful to the muses who walk on the right foot with their shoes with diamond bars, and this time we think of Cate Blanchett and Nicole Kidman.

Roger Vivier ©Jeanne Bordeau

The clothing brand AMI, created by Alexandre Mattiussi is said thanks to Audrey Tautou, Catherine Deneuve or Pierre Niney. For Jacquemus, he surrounded himself with Leïla Bekhti, but also with gypsies, and decided on Marseille as a sensitive city of reference to expand and consolidate his identity.

Knows how to play small without doing much.

More than ever, luxury brands are paying attention to the little things that make the difference. Cognac Louis XIII launches “The drop”, a small round flask that can be worn on the shoulder as an accessory. Jacquemus’ straps give his creations a personal and unique touch. Not in a shop do you buy timepieces by the Swiss watchmaker Max Büsser, which are considered works of art, the “horological machine” is sold in art galleries created for this purpose.

CSR has found a place.

The “green” and socially responsible trend that we saw dominating luxury a few years ago is confirmed, and customers are waiting always and above all authenticity. But, in the palette embraced by authenticity, brands have chosen the actions that best identify them, again to reinforce their personality.

If authenticity is widely considered, it is in a different way. It seems that each brand has chosen to promote itself around its values ​​and its raison d’être, and knows how, in this quest for CSR, to choose the battles that best characterize it.

In the automotive sector, Lexus prefers to emphasize its link to craftsmanship and technology in its CSR service. The luxury car brand features its master craftsmen named Takumi. Lexus says “their hands are their most important tool.” The label describes the actions of these workers: ” wearing clean white gloves, they use their keen sensitivity to look for the smallest mistakes and imperfections. »

Evok Group states that “ have the ambition to be an actor in civil society, to develop the men and women who make up its teams, to transmit knowledge and interpersonal skills. »

The founder of the Jacquemus brand, Simon Porte, highlights his homosexuality. Naturally its commitment to LGBTQI+ people is what the brand chooses to claim as a guarantee of authenticity. So Jacquemus showed his support for the association Emergency of Homophobia with LGBTQI+ people seeking asylum in France.

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran chose utility and functionality to illustrate the power of simplicity. Their clothes are designed for everyday life, their wardrobe is modular and inspired by the function and stability of work clothes and military clothes, requiring sobriety.

Joy, playfulness, “fun”.

At a time when words like scarcity and restriction are bandied about, luxury has decided to lure us.

So many parades, so many shows, so many collections, they say. But, in many ways, the shows are still there, inventive and wonderful. Consider Dior, Balenciaga and Gucci. And digital shines with a thousand inventions to inform, attract and sell without questioning its responsible consumption. Luxury is never wrong, the public always needs something playful, light and fun. It’s the fiftieth anniversary of the “smiley” and AMI has created an “AMI Smiley” capsule that aims to “satisfy” customers. Joy and optimism are the key words of this collection.

Moreover, to rebalance the strict obligations of the law of the Pact, it is necessary to smile the tongue, to be a bearer of joy. Luxury remains the sister of the dream. Jacquemus was probably right to hand out little boxes of popcorn, which we saw everywhere in Paris this fall. Creative words are always happy, sought after pearls. Shoemaker Roger Vivier, for example, makes jewelry he calls Flower Strass, Bouquet Strass or Blossom.

To be happy, to be friends, is the new way of being. The AMI brand has no customers, but friends. Similarly, Max Büsser&Friends has no partners but designer, engineer and creator friends.

Because of all these new attitudes, the old words of luxury seem to be getting old and disappearing: “excellence, exclusivity, rarity, exclusivity, icon, legend, boldness, secret, beauty, limited edition, nothing certain time. So much has been read and seen… We should not qualify ourselves. In the age of the “responsible” world, we must argue and give proof.

Finally, “ everything has to change so nothing changes because like children, we always need to hear a story. Thanks to Pacte law, brand messages have become more consistent and tell their purpose and mission. The semantic field of luxury is gaining quality at a time when brands are all recording the word personalization, which is fortunate, because more and more, thanks to the quality of discourse achieved, luxury can begin to give an impression that it is addressed to each of us.

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